Ingredient Glossary

A

is the Latin name foravocado, and the oil from this fruit is an excellent source of skin-replenishing fatty acids, including omega-3 linolenic acid, omega-linoleic acid, oleic acid, and beta sitosterol. These work on skin’s surface to preserve moisture and prevent water loss that can lead to signs of dehydrated skin. Avocado oil not only replenishes, smooths, and softens skin, it’s also able to visibly calm skin and is a good source of natural antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, D, and E.

On compromised skin, avocado oil has been shown to boost
skin’s hydroxyproline content, an amino acid that plays a key role in reinforcing a firm feeling along with strengthening skin’s barrier.

Oil from the avocado seed is a good source of a group of antioxidants known as polyphenols, which includes catechin, epicatechin, and 3-leucoanthocyanidins. These have a synergistic effect on neutralising many types of free radicals before they can damage skin.

is a non-polar, hydrophobic amino acid, synthesized mainly from pyruvate and L-glutamate. As a non-essential amino acid, sufficient levels of alanine can be obtained through diet alone. In skincare, alanine is known to balance moisture levels on the skin, thus providing improved hydration.

is used to make creams feel lighter, help other ingredients to penetrate your skin, and as a preservative. In large proportion can be sensitizing and drying.

is an amino acid that is used in cosmetics and personal care products to protect the skin from free radicals, increase skin hydration, and boost collagen production. 

A triple-action blend of retinol, bakuchiol and peptides supports collagen-depleted skin to target fine lines, deep wrinkles and loss of firmness

What is it? Alkyl polyglucoside comes from plant-based fatty alcohols (such as those in coconut and corn) and plant
starch.  Primarily acts as a
surfactant. It helps emulsify various products (i.e. lotions, crèmes, cleansers) and makes them easier to spread over the skin. The formulation also
reduces the total amount of other surfactants without sacrificing the product’s
performance. Also, because it’s obtained from renewable sources (i.e. fatty
oils and acids), it is environmentally friendly. Completely biodegradable, both
aerobically and anaerobicall.

Properties: Eco-friendly, Hypoallergenic, Creates
a smooth texture, Lowers surface tension. 

Emblica officinalis fruit extract is among one the richest plant sources of antioxidants, particularly the phenolic class of
antioxidants which include flavonoids like gallic acid, quercetin, and rutin.


These and other antioxidant compounds in Emblica officinalis fruit extract (also referred to as Indian gooseberry or amla) explain its remarkable ability
to defend skin from numerous types of damaging free radicals.

Along with its antioxidant power, Amla berry has proven to be remarkably soothing, with the ability to quiet factors in skin that stir visible signs of trouble, such as redness and increased sensitivity. This berry has also demonstrated highly impressive antioxidant benefits when consumed via food or supplement, where it can scavenge different types of harmful molecules before they cause harm.

B

is a conditioning agent are ingredients that add a layer of softness or improved texture to your hair or skin. They’re also called moisturizers or, in the case of butylene glycol, humectants. Butylene glycol works to condition skin and hair by coating the surface of your cells.

Butyrospermum parkii is the Latin name for the shea tree. Its most famous product is shea butter, a plant lipid extracted from the tree. It is
used as an emollient in cosmetics and has smoothing properties for dry skin.

Butyrospermum parkii butter doesn’t just have a rich texture; it’s also a rich source of antioxidants, including quercetin, epicatechin gallate,
gallocatechin, epigallocatechin, as well as skin-replenishing fatty acids (stearic and linoleic). It is an excellent ingredient to see in products designed to
improve dry skin.

 

C

is extracted from red seaweed (Chondrus crispus), which is commonly called Irish moss. Carrageenan is also a water-binding agent, which means it helps hold water onto the skin and hair, increasing hydration.

Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil is a vegetable oil derived
from the castor bean, which is noted as a rich source of skin-beneficial fatty acids. It is used in skin care formulations as an emollient, though its unique
property is that once it dries it forms a solid film that can have
water-binding properties. It can also enhance the absorption of other cosmetic ingredients.

 

Depending on the other ingredients combined with in a formulation, Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil can have a slightly sticky feel on skin. It is known for maintaining its fluidity at extremely high and very low temperatures.

 

Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil is rarely associated with skin sensitivity and has been deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Their 2007
report looked at personal care products using up to 81% of Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil.

The ester of cetyl palmitate and palmitic acid, this thickener and emollient helps smooth and condition dry skin. The ingredients that comprise cetyl palmitate are naturally-occurring fatty acids. It may be derived from animals but can also (and is usually) derived from plants or manufactured synthetically.

is a key ingredient in many skincare products for all skin types, both for its moisture-retaining benefits as well as its ability to deliver other active ingredients like Vitamin C to the skin. It can attract up to 1,000 times weight in water from moisture in the air. It is also used in anti-aging skincare to plump the skin with moisture, reducing the appearance of fine lines.

Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax is primarily used as a thickening agent, but also has film-forming and absorbent properties. Can be used to impart glossy shine.

It is derived from coconut oil and
glycerin and is considered an excellent emollient and skin-replenishing ingredient. Of note, its mix of fatty acids replenish skin’s surface and help
it to resist moisture loss.

Caprylic/capric
triglyceride can also function as a thickener or penetration enhancer, but its chief job is to moisturize and replenish skin. This ingredient’s value for skin
is made greater by the fact that it’s considered gentle.

As a raw material
caprylic/capric triglyceride is clear, non-viscous liquid. It is known to improve to the spreadability of formula. Safety assessments have deemed
capric/caprylic triglyceride safe in cosmetic formulations in concentrations below 50%, with reported uses varying between 0.1% to 35%. Despite what is often purported on the internet skin care advice sites, there is no research showing
caprylic/capric triglyceride is “comedogenic” or pore clogging. (This assumption is often tied to its relation to coconut oil.) Theoretically,
because its molecular weight of 408 is below 500 Daltons, caprylic/capric triglyceride technically has the ability to penetrate the pore lining, but even that doesn’t inherently mean it will clog pores.

 

Also known as Ceramide NP -
Ceramides are a type of lipid (naturally-occurring oil) found throughout the skin. Your body produces ceramides in the stratum corneum, the top layer of your epidermis, also known as your moisture barrier.

Your skin’s moisture barrier has a brick-and-mortar structure, with skin cells called corneocytes forming the bricks and a waxy mixture made of 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% fatty acids gluing the cells together. This lipid mixture helps keep your skin strong, waterproof, healthy, and resilient. A lack of ceramides in the moisture barrier has been associated with a number of skin
ailments.

Topically-applied ceramides have been heavily studied for their benefits in increasing skin health, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and soothing irritated skin. Beyond their role in the moisture barrier, ceramides also play an important role in regulating the life cycle of healthy skin cells. Skincare products featuring ceramides are great for all skin types, but are especially critical for those with sensitive or compromised skin.

 

is a non-sensitizing plant extract. Most types of cucumber are composed of 95% water, and the other constituents
primarily include ascorbic acid (vitamin C), caffeic acid (an antioxidant), fatty acids, the mineral silica, plus other trace minerals. Due to its antioxidant activity, cucumber is a welcome addition to anti-ageing products.


Cucumber contains fragrant components that are not sensitising to skin (a
rarity) so it can be used to enhance the natural scent of a cosmetic product without issue. While this ingredient is often reported to be useful for improving the appearance of puffy eyes there is not adequate, reliable research
to support this contention. In case you’re wondering: The act of placing slightly chilled cucumber slices over the eye may help reduce puffiness, but
that’s not because the cucumber has de-puffing properties. Rather, it’s the
coolness of it that diminishes puffiness and constricts the skin, and cucumber slices just happen to fit the contours of the eye area.

Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that is a mixture of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. It can be derived naturally, as in coconut fatty alcohol, or made synthetically. Unlike the
skin-aggravating/drying forms of alcohol (typically listed as SD alcohol, or isopropyl alcohol), cetearyl alcohol is an emollient that is gentle, safe, and
good for skin.

Beyond cetearyl alcohol’s
emollient ability to provide a softening and smoothing effect, it is also used as a carrying agent for other ingredients. Additionally, it can be used to
alter the thickness of a formula or to influence the foaming capacity of a cleanser.

It is almost always
combined with similar-feeling ingredients to create a product’s texture and slip sensation when applied to skin.

According to the U.S. FDA,
cosmetic products labeled “alcohol free” are allowed to contain cetearyl alcohol,
because the effects are so different from skin-damaging forms of alcohol. We
repeat: fatty alcohols like cetearyl alcohol do not pose a risk of sensitizing or drying out your skin. As a raw material, cetearyl alcohol is a white, waxy
solid (often in flake form). It is not soluble in water but is soluble in alcohol and oils. In the majority of skin care formulas, cetearyl alcohol is present in under a 5% concentration, although higher amounts are permissible. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has a long history of recognizing cetearyl alcohol as safe in the present practices of use.

Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract (commonly referred to as chamomile) is popular in skin care for its soothing properties. The main constituents of the flowers include phenolic compounds, primarily the flavonoids apigenin, quercetin, patuletin, luteolin, and their glucosides, all
of which function as antioxidants. Adverse responses to chamomile have been reported among those who are allergic to other plants in the daisy family, in which case topical use may prove problematic.

In 2018, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reevaluated Chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower extract and deemed it safe as used as in cosmetics. Their report surveyed 156 products using up to 0.5% of this extract in leave-on formulas.

-  hydrogenated castor
oil is an emollient and emulsifying agent created from a mixture of synthetic polyethylene glycol (PEG) + natural castor oil. It also helps other ingredients solubilize in a formula which improves both aesthetics and performance.
Essentially, it meshes water and oil substances, as well as allows other ingredients to dissolve cohesively for a pleasing result.

 

You can find hydrogenated
castor oil in all kinds of personal care formulas including facial cleansers,
serums, toners or hair care products. The weight and size of this ingredient is too large to penetrate beyond skin’s surface, but that’s fine—this type of emollient is needed on the surface to minimize moisture loss and impart a soft feel.

 

Hydrogenated castor oil is
considered non-sensitizing and safe for use in cosmetics with identified concentrations ranging from 0.00007% to 22% (according to a 2015 report).
Safety assessments have shown that even higher concentrations are non-irritating.

is an alpha/beta hydroxy acid
found naturally in citrus fruits such as lemons and limes. In skincare formulations, Citric Acid has protective antioxidant, and corrective antiaging
effects helping to reverse visible signs of photodamage.

Citric Acid works by
exfoliating the upper layer of dead skin cells to help clean pores, even skin tone and soften and smooth the skin. AHAs can also be used as pH adjusters. pH adjusters are ingredients added to products to ensure they are mild and non-irritating – not too acidic (low pH) or too basic (high pH). Most recently,
Citric Acid has also been found to be important in healthy skin barrier function by maintaining the optimum level of pH in areas of the skin which are
essential for normal skin barrier function.

 

The skincare benefits of
Citric Acid include:

  • Exfoliates to rid skin of
    dead cells, promoting exfoliation
  • Helps to unclog pores
  • Targets the skin’s
    hydrating support matrix to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  • Helps to even skin tone
  • Helps to brighten, soften
    and smooth the skin

Citric Acid is ideal for all ages and skin types.

Cetearyl olivate and sorbitan olivate are esters made from the fatty acids of olive oil combined with cetearyl alcohol (a plant-derived emulsifier) or sorbitol (a plant-derived thickener).

 

What are the benefits for
you?

As an emulsifier, it mixes
water-based and oil-based ingredients together and keeps them from separating. It creates light, silky textures that are easily absorbed by the skin.

 

Castor isostearate succinate is a mix of esters formed by the reaction of castor seed oil, isostearic acid, and
succinic acid. This ingredient functions as a skin conditioning agent and is primarily used as an emollient or lubricant in hair or lip care products.

 

According to one of its
suppliers, it can also help boost SPF in skin care products. In its raw form, castor isostearate succinate is a clear to slightly hazy amber liquid. The independent Cosmetic Ingredient review board has ruled it safe as used in cosmetics. Typical usage levels range from 0.25%–10%, depending on desired formulary characteristics.

A derivative of cocamide and glycine betaine. Its made from coconut oil. Although, it is often said that coco-betaine is interchangeable with cocamidopropyl betaine, this is not the case: the two have different chemical structures and two separate INCIs.

It works as a surfactant, foaming agent, viscocity increasing agent, emulsifier and conditioner. As a surfactant, it's mostly used in bath products because it gently cleanses the skin/hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed off. On top of that, its pH range contributes a mild germicidal effect, which also makes it an effective, yet mild, cleansing agent for personal sanitary products.

D

is typically found in skin products for skin ailments, to clarify and decongest the skin. Useful in acne-based products and products aimed at spot prone skin.

is extremely purified in the production of cosmetic products and in that sense, slightly better.

This surfactant works as a mild foaming agent, cleanser and skin conditioner. As a foam booster, it increases a solution's foaming capacity by increasing the surface viscosity of the liquid which surrounds the individual bubbles in a foam. It cleans the skin by enabling water to mix with oil & dirt particles, and rinse them off the surface. It's highly valued for cleansing the skin/hair without stripping it of its natural oils, and is thus incorporated into many "moisturizing" cosmetic cleaning products. Derived from the fatty acids found in coconut oil. An imidazoline-derived amphoteric organic compound.

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate is a non-irritating ingredient ideal for delicate skin types. The expert panel Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), has assessed this ingredient and found to be safe, non-toxic and non-irritating.

 

E

Willow Bark is a natural beta-hydroxy acid, and this ingredient can help to promote clear pores, soothe visible redness, and minimize excess oil and shine. Salicylic is a potent acne ingredient that can be derived by willow bark or synthetically created.

Along with the antioxidant benefits of anti-ageing, and the anti-inflammatory benefits for acne and irritation, horsetail extract has other skin benefits. Applied to the skin, it can help heal rashes, burns, shrink pore, and wounds thanks to its antibacterial and antimicrobial properties.

is a mixture of a fatty alcohol and palmitic acid that functions in cosmetics products as an emollient (meaning it can soften and smooth skin), texture enhancer, and solvent in amounts from 2-50%, depending on the type of formula and desired aesthetics. It improves the look of skin, particularly dry skin, by helping reduce moisture loss from its
upper layers. As a solvent, it helps solubilize other Ingredients, helping active ingredients more readily penetrate skin. It helps sunscreen active ingredients such as avobenzone and ethylhexyl triazone disperse and remain evenly suspended in a formula.

 

Ethylhexyl palmitate has a
feel like some silicones and silicone derivatives, making it an alternative to those ingredients in certain formulations. There’s no research indicating this ingredient, which may be synthetic, plant-, or animal-derived, is a problem for
skin. SERUMIZE uses either the synthetic or plant-derived form of this ingredient depending on the product.

Emblica officinalis fruit extract is among one the richest plant sources of antioxidants, particularly the phenolic class of
antioxidants which include flavonoids like gallic acid, quercetin, and rutin. These and other antioxidant compounds in Emblica officinalis fruit extract
(also referred to as Indian gooseberry or amla) explain its remarkable ability to defend skin from numerous types of damaging free radicals. Along with its antioxidant power, Amla berry has proven to be remarkably soothing, with
the ability to quiet factors in skin that stir visible signs of trouble, such as redness and increased sensitivity. This berry has also demonstrated highly impressive antioxidant benefits when consumed via food or supplement, where it can scavenge different types of harmful molecules before they cause harm.

G

is used in skincare as an emollient, slip agent, and humectant that absorbs moisture from the air and draws it into the skin. It is also enhances the spreadability of cosmetic products. It has been studied and used extensively in skincare for its compatibility with other ingredients.

is an amino acid that is primarily used in anti-aging skin care products because of its ability to improve moisture retention, increase collagen production, and promote skin repair and regeneration. It can also be used as a buffering agent.

is a versatile ingredient
that plays various roles in skin care formulations and other personal care products.

Reported functions include: opacifying agent, skin-conditioning occlusive, and
viscosity increasing agent (texture enhancer). This ingredient is particularly
popular in hair care, as well as bubble baths, facial cleansers, makeup, and nail products. Glycol distearate is the diester of ethylene glycol and stearic
acid (fatty acid). It is described as a white to cream-colored waxy solid in its raw material form. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has conducted several assessments of glycol distearate over the years, reaffirming its safe use in cosmetics. Their most recent report (in 2017) looked at products containing up to 13.1%.

 

Glyceryl Stearate is a waxy
ingredient that is great for softening skin texture and smoothing the skin. At
room temperature, it is a white or cream coloured wax-like solid. It is used to give a cream structure and also slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin's surface. Mechanically, Glyceryl Stearate helps to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified.

HOW IT'S SOURCED - Glyceryl
Stearate is made from reacting glycerin and stearic acid together to create a wax-like substance. The glycerin is sourced from soy oil and the stearic acid is made from palm kernels or coconut that has been processed to isolate for the stearic acid.

 

Glyceryl Stearate is a waxy
ingredient that is great for softening skin texture and smoothing the skin. At
room temperature, it is a white or cream coloured wax-like solid. It is used to give a cream structure and also slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin's surface. Mechanically, Glyceryl Stearate helps to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified.

HOW IT'S SOURCED - Glyceryl
Stearate is made from reacting glycerin and stearic acid together to create a wax-like substance. The glycerin is sourced from soy oil and the stearic acid is made from palm kernels or coconut that has been processed to isolate for the stearic acid.

 

H

an amino acid that soothes the skin and has antioxidant properties.

is used in cosmetic products as an emollient agent to give skin suppleness and smoothness, and for its humectant and moisturizing properties, due to its high content of sugars retaining water on skin. It is hyper hydrating and has purifying qualities.

is a non-ionic, water soluble polymer used as a thickening agent for aqueous cosmetic and personal care formulations. It will produce crystal clear gel products and thicken the aqueous phase of cosmetic emulsions. It can be also be used to efficiently thicken shampoos, body washes and shower gels.

Witch hazel is a smallish tree (up to 5m) that's native to North-America, has nice yellow flowers and is similar to the hazelnut bush (hence the name). It is
reported to have soothing and anti-redness benefits and is often used in after shave lotions for this reason. It is also used in toners, particularly for oily
and combination skin types. It is said to tighten the skin and minimize visible pores, while reducing excess oil on the skin's surface. As for skincare, it's loaded with active components that have a bunch of magic properties, like astringent, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-bacterial. It's also a well-known vasoconstrictor (it makes the blood vessels narrower) and promotes the healing of broken skin by tightening up the skin proteins and thus creating a protective covering.

The complication, however,
is that different extracts and distillates can be made from different parts of the plant (bark, twigs, and leaves are typically used) and different extraction methods from different parts produce different results.

 

The main biologically
active components in Witch Hazel are hamamelitannin (a
potent astringent and antioxidant), catechins (anti-inflammatory and antioxidant) and gallic acid (antibacterial). The bark extract contains by far the most hamamelitannin and it has the most gallic acid and catechins. The twigs contain fewer catechins, less gallic acid, and much less hamamelitannin (4.77% vs 0.18%). The leaves contain hardly any tannins (0.04%) or catechins and contain a medium amount of gallic acid (compared to the bark and twigs).

-  hydrogenated castor
oil is an emollient and emulsifying agent created from a mixture of synthetic polyethylene glycol (PEG) + natural castor oil. It also helps other ingredients solubilize in a formula which improves both aesthetics and performance.
Essentially, it meshes water and oil substances, as well as allows other ingredients to dissolve cohesively for a pleasing result.

 

You can find hydrogenated
castor oil in all kinds of personal care formulas including facial cleansers,
serums, toners or hair care products. The weight and size of this ingredient is too large to penetrate beyond skin’s surface, but that’s fine—this type of emollient is needed on the surface to minimize moisture loss and impart a soft feel.

 

Hydrogenated castor oil is
considered non-sensitizing and safe for use in cosmetics with identified concentrations ranging from 0.00007% to 22% (according to a 2015 report).
Safety assessments have shown that even higher concentrations are non-irritating.

 

I

an amino acid; a skin-identical ingredient and moisturizer. It also seems to be useful as a barrier repair ingredient.

J

Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil is a non-fragrant emollient extracted from the seeds of a perennial shrub. It has been shown to enhance
skin’s restorative properties and can also provide topical skin-soothing benefits. Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil is a rich source of numerous fatty acids and antioxidants.

 

The texture of Simmondsia
chinensis
 (jojoba) seed oil is similar to the sebum (oil) human skin produces, which makes it a brilliant ingredient for dry skin but potentially problematic for those with oily skin prone to clogged pores and breakouts.
(Note: jojoba wax is considered more of an issue for breakout-prone skin than
jojoba oil.)

 

Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil has the distinction of
feeling lighter and less greasy than many other oils, particularly highly saturated oils such as coconut. It is one of the more stable plant oils in use
today.

K

L

An ester of lauryl alcohol and lauric acid, lauryl laurate is an emollient ingredient that can help bioactive ingredients better integrate with skin's surface. It is considered safe as used in cosmetics.

has good fungicidal properties and may be used to remedy fungal infections, like athlete's foot. Astringent: As an effective astringent, Lemongrass helps to minimize pores, limit the secretions of oil (great for those of us with oily skin), and tighten skin.

M

Pistacia lentiscus gum is the resin of the Pistacia lentiscus or
mastic tree, which is native to north Africa and the Mediterranean region. It
has been used in traditional Greek medicine for centuries as a treatment for several internal and external ailments. It is also known as Chios mastic gum,
named after the Greek island from which much of it is sourced.

 

Like all plant extracts, Pistacia lentiscus gum has antioxidant properties. In cosmetics, it is used by some suppliers for pore-tightening due to its
astringent properties. There is some research also showing its volatile compounds can have an antimicrobial effect on skin.

 

Unfortunately, those volatile, fragrant compounds mean this extract has the potential to irritate skin. While not the worst option, it’s better to pair it with more long-term pore-improving products featuring proven ingredients such as salicylic acid and niacinamide.

 

Usage levels of Pistacia
lentiscus
 gum in skin care range from 2–4%. It’s typically supplied in a blend with ingredients such as triglycerides, one or more glycols, and/or water.

N

also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, is a water-soluble B vitamin that plays an important role in many
SERUMIZE products—from cleansers to eye creams, serums, and sunscreens. When used as part of your daily skincare regimen, niacinamide may help calm your skin, reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and increase moisture in your skin’s uppermost layer. This makes niacinamide a helpful skincare ingredient
for those looking to promote hydrated, even-toned skin.

First studied for its skincare benefits in the 1970s, niacinamide has since become a popular cosmetic ingredient in formulations for multiple skin types and skin concerns—including SERUMIZE products for acne-prone skin, sensitive skin, and more. 

Niacinamide has a plethora
of benefits as a skin care ingredient including its ability to:

  • Minimize the appearance of enlarged pores and improve “orange peel” textured skin
  • Restore skin’s defenses against moisture loss and dehydration
  • Visibly even out skin tone and discolorations from sun damage

O

is a natural extract from Olea europaea (Olive) leaves. The extract has antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. It also has anti-aging effects with its ability to inhibit elastase, which helps to support skin elasticity.

Aloe Barbedensis is available as leaf, juice, or extract. Aloe Vera is used for its skin healing properties, emollient and anti-inflammatory benefits.  It helps to soften and smooth the skin.

is rich in triterpene saponins—a compound that helps keep skin tighter and firmer—and is also a great source of phytonutrients called flavonoids that act as antioxidants and fight off free radical damage.

has been used by Moroccan women for centuries for beauty benefits. It works well for all skin types as an emollient ingredient that is rich in fatty acids which strengthen the natural protective barrier of the skin. 

From jojoba plant seeds, jojoba oil is similar to the skin's natural oil. It is easily absorbed and works with the natural lipids in the skin, preventing water loss to soften the skin. It is very stable and is frequently found in moisturizers, lipsticks, and shampoos and conditioners.

is a non-comedogenic carrier oil which is highly absorbent, and won’t clog pores. It’s non-irritating for most people, and can be used on all types of skin, including dry, normal, oily, and acne-prone.

p

are used in skincare for promoting firmness and minimizing visible signs of aging such as fine lines and wrinkles, and dark spots. Peptide technology is based on creating and manipulating chains of amino acids and proteins, and this technology has quickly evolved to address multiple skincare concerns. 

is a compound that includes amino acids and lipid residue, used in cosmetics and personal care products, specifically whitening formulas, to prevent skin cells from producing melanin pigmentation.

is a combination of four molecules combined with Glycerin. It is used as an emulsifier in soaps, shampoos and other personal care products.

can serve as a dispersing agent and mix oil and water, work as a fragrance solubilizer and stabilizer, act as a lubricator, and have a soothing effect on the skin.

is a mild preservative being used in cosmetic and skin care formulas as a paraben alternative to prevent or retard the growth of microorganisms and protect products from spoiling.

is often used in anti-aging skin care products because of its ability to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The result is skin that becomes thinner and more fragile with age. Using ingredients that stimulate collagen production, such as proline, can help to maintain skin firmness and elasticity. 

It works in skin care products as both a humectant and a conditioner. Basically, it helps you achieve two things you really want for your skin: Hydration and smoothness.
It can be an especially helpful ingredient if you’re constantly battling dryness, flaking, or gnarly rough texture.

Here’s a closer look at the
benefits:

  • Locks in moisture. Propylene glycol has humectant properties, meaning it draws water into your skin.
  • It also works as a barrier to keep moisture in your skin, helping it stay hydrated.
  • Protects the skin barrier. Propylene glycol’s humectant properties are thought to help protect and repair the skin’s outer barrier, which can be particularly awesome if you’re dealing with conditions like eczema or psoriasis.

Helps skin look fresher. It’s pretty simple:

  • More hydration and a happy, healthy skin barrier means your skin is more likely to have that glowy, dewy look.
  • Helps other ingredients work better. Propylene glycol actually helps other ingredients make their way into your skin. Ultimately, they help that moisturizer or serum do its job so you can get the best possible results.

Historically, propylene glycol was made from petrochemicals, more specifically from propylene oxide. But recent developments in green chemistry have pioneered a plant-based version that is derived from vegetable oils. Via a process called hydrogenolysis, glycerin and hydrogen react at high temperature and pressure to produce an entirely bio-based propylene glycol. While these two versions of propylene glycol serve the same function in a final product and are chemically identical, they are made from very different materials. Perhaps the best analogy is that of hiking up a mountain. It’s possible to take different routes to the same summit, as is the case with creating propylene glycol.

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is a
synthetic fatty acid-linked peptide that can help repair visible skin damage and strengthen skin’s underlying supportive elements. It’s categorized as a “messenger peptide” because of its ability to “tell” skin how to look better,
specifically regarding reducing signs of sun damage like wrinkles and rough texture.

Some research has shown
that this peptide has similar anti-aging benefits to retinol. (You can use both ingredients for even greater benefits.)

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 also goes by the names pal-GHK and palmitoyl oligopeptide. It appears as a white powder in its
raw material form. In 2018, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel looked at personal care products using palmitoyl tripeptide-1 between 0.0000001% to 0.001% and deemed it was safe in current practice of use and concentration. As with most lab-made peptides, a little goes a long way.

is a synthetic peptide
composed of the amino acids glutamine, glycine, arginine, and proline. It works as a skin-restoring ingredient and is noted for its soothing ability since it
can interrupt factors within skin that lead to signs of irritation (including from exposure to UVB light) and loss of firmness. By working in this manner, skin can regain a firm feeling and engage in repair so that wrinkles will be
visibly reduced.

Along with the four amino
acids, this peptide also contains the fatty acid palmitic acid to enhance stability and penetration into the skin. Typical usage level is in the parts
per million range, which translates to very low, yet highly effective percentages between 0.0001%–0.005%, although higher or lower amounts may be
used depending on the formulary goals.

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 is
often used as part of a blend with other peptides, such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1. This can produce a nice synergy and offer more targeted results
on a wider range of skin concerns.

On its own, it is supplied
as a powder but in blends it’s combined with hydrators like glycerin, various glycols, triglycerides, or fatty alcohols to make them easier to incorporate
into formulas.This water-soluble peptide is considered safe as used in cosmetics.

Synthetic blend of the
fatty acid palmitic acid with several amino acids. Also known as pal-KTTKS. Theoretically, many peptides have skin-restoring ability. Palmitoyl
oligopeptide was the former catchall name for a handful of peptides, including palmitoyl hexapeptide-12. As more peptides were synthesized for use in skincare, specific names were developed to avoid confusion.

is the Latin name for
avocado, and the oil from this fruit is an excellent source of
skin-replenishing fatty acids, including omega-3 linolenic acid, omega-linoleic acid, oleic acid, and beta sitosterol. These work on skin’s surface to preserve moisture and prevent water loss that can lead to signs of dehydrated skin. Avocado oil not only replenishes, smooths, and softens skin, it’s also able to visibly calm skin and is a good source of natural antioxidants such as vitamins A, C, D, and E.

On compromised skin, avocado oil has been shown to boost
skin’s hydroxyproline content, an amino acid that plays a key role in reinforcing a firm feeling along with strengthening skin’s barrier.

Oil from the avocado seed is a good source of a group of antioxidants known as polyphenols, which includes catechin, epicatechin, and 3-leucoanthocyanidins. These have a synergistic effect on neutralising many types of free radicals before they can damage skin.

Pistacia lentiscus gum is the resin of the Pistacia lentiscus or
mastic tree, which is native to north Africa and the Mediterranean region. It
has been used in traditional Greek medicine for centuries as a treatment for several internal and external ailments. It is also known as Chios mastic gum,
named after the Greek island from which much of it is sourced.

 

Like all plant extracts, Pistacia lentiscus gum has antioxidant properties. In cosmetics, it is used by some suppliers for pore-tightening due to its
astringent properties. There is some research also showing its volatile compounds can have an antimicrobial effect on skin.

 

Unfortunately, those volatile, fragrant compounds mean this extract has the potential to irritate skin. While not the worst option, it’s better to pair it with more long-term pore-improving products featuring proven ingredients such as salicylic acid and niacinamide.

 

Usage levels of Pistacia
lentiscus
 gum in skin care range from 2–4%. It’s typically supplied in a blend with ingredients such as triglycerides, one or more glycols, and/or water.

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is known for its ability to cleanse, soften, moisturize, soothe, nourish, and smooth the skin. It slows the look of aging and brightens the complexion.

contains vitamin A which is useful in evening out skin tone and promoting cell regeneration for a more radiant, brighter look. This oil also contains essential fatty acids, which help with cell regeneration—thereby reducing the appearance of scars—and keep skin soft and supple.

Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil is a vegetable oil derived
from the castor bean, which is noted as a rich source of skin-beneficial fatty acids. It is used in skin care formulations as an emollient, though its unique
property is that once it dries it forms a solid film that can have
water-binding properties. It can also enhance the absorption of other cosmetic ingredients.

 

Depending on the other ingredients combined with in a formulation, Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil can have a slightly sticky feel on skin. It is known for maintaining its fluidity at extremely high and very low temperatures.

 

Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil is rarely associated with skin sensitivity and has been deemed safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Their 2007
report looked at personal care products using up to 81% of Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil.

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Salicylic (Beta-Hydroxy Acid or BHA) works to control excess oil production, and reduces the stickiness of oil that clogs pores and contributes to breakouts. A true acne-fighting multi-tasker, salicylic also gently exfoliates the skin's surface.

Clear Fight Serum

may help your skin heal from wounds, sunburns, frostbite and bedsores. It may also promote elasticity and protect against dryness.

is an amino acid that most often comes to the formula as part of a moisturizing complex. It's a non-essential amino acid (meaning that our body can synthesize it) and serves as a water-binding ingredient. In general, amino acids are great skincare ingredients that play an important role in proper skin hydration but there is not much info out there about what specifically serine can do for the skin.

Salt of benzoic acid used as a preservative in both cosmetics and food products. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has designated it a “generally recognized as safe” ingredient.

is a highly alkaline ingredient used in small amounts in cosmetics to establish and hold the pH of a product. It's also used as a cleansing and denaturing agent. In high concentrations, it's a significant skin sensitizer.

is found in the stratum corneum of the skin and is the most cost effective, naturally occurring humectant available for use as a moisturizer. Has slight skin-lightening effects.

Natural component of skin, PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is also a very good hydrating agent. Sodium PCA also functions as a skin-replenishing ingredient.

Cetearyl olivate and
sorbitan olivate are esters made from the fatty acids of olive oil combined with cetearyl alcohol (a plant-derived emulsifier) or sorbitol (a plant-derived
thickener).

 

What are the benefits for
you?

As an emulsifier, it mixes
water-based and oil-based ingredients together and keeps them from separating. It creates light, silky textures that are easily absorbed by the skin.

 

Sodium Anisate is a 100% natural preservative obtained from anise and fennel.

Benefits:

It is a gentle preservative proved to have a great mitotic inhibitor activity without altering the integrity, colour or pH of other natural ingredients included in the final product. It is especially
used in the preservation of fresh ingredients.

Sodium levulinate is the salt of
levulinic acid, a synthetic organic acid that helps condition and soften skin. Sodium levulinate is sometimes part of preservative blend because it exhibits antimicrobial action, although this is more common in food than for cosmetics.

 

The levulinic acid component can be transformed by naturally occurring microbes on skin into other helpful substances, including the moisturizing ingredient trehalose.

The independent Cosmetic Ingredient Review board is currently reviewing data on the safety of sodium levulinate as used in skin care products.

Currently, concentrations below 5% are permitted for use in cosmetics. Sodium levulinate is almost always part of a blend rather than being used on its own.

Sodium Hyaluronate at a Glance is a salt form of hyaluronic acid, an excellent skin-replenishing ingredient, one gram can hold up to six liters of water, is more readily absorbed into skin than hyaluronic acid, and available in different molecular weights for controlled penetration. Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of the skin-replenishing ingredient hyaluronic acid.

It shares the same benefits as hyaluronic acid, including its remarkable ability to help skin retain a lot of moisture - one gram (or 0.03 oz.) of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six liters of water. Used on skin, it doesn’t hold that much water; instead, as a smart ingredient, sodium hyaluronate helps skin maintain water balance, which is critical to its healthy appearance.

In addition to its moisture-binding (humectant) properties, sodium hyaluronate is also considered a postbiotic, meaning it can help nourish and maintain skin’s microbiome.

The chief difference between hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate is that sodium hyaluronate is more bioavailable - meaning skin more readily absorbs it than hyaluronic acid. This doesn’t necessarily mean it’s better than hyaluronic acid, merely that many skin care products contain both forms, so your skin sees maximum benefits. Both hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate are available in different molecular weights for multi-level results (lower molecular weight can penetrate deeper into skin’s layers, where higher weights deliver immediate results on
the surface).

Sodium gluconate for skin
is the salt form of gluconic acid, a mild acid produced from the sugar glucose. Despite the in-part sugar origins, sodium gluconate in skin care is a synthetic ingredient.

 

In skin care, sodium gluconate functions as a chelating agent. Chelating agents are ingredients that bind with metal ions to enhance the stability of other ingredients. Interestingly, the human body produces gluconates on its own to assist in obtaining nutrients from minerals.

In addition to being a chelating agent, sodium gluconate in skin care can also function as a humectant, meaning it helps skin retain a balanced amount of water. Its typical use level in cosmetics is 0.1-1.0%.

is a non-volatile, non-fragrant plant oil from sunflower that is used as an emollient in cosmetics. This seed oil’s 60% (on average) linoleic acid content has the ability to help replenish, strengthen, and soothe skin. This oil also
contains other beneficial fatty acids skin can use, including oleic, palmitic, stearic, and a small amount of omega-3 linolenic acid. Helianthus
annuusseed oil is particularly beneficial for dry, dehydrated, or
environmentally compromised skin because its linoleic acid content helps skin synthesise its own lipids (fats), including ceramides, visibly repairing its
barrier and leading to smoother, healthier-looking skin.

Helianthus annuus seed
oil
also has a natural calming effect on skin, so can be helpful for reducing signs of skin stress or irritation. In fact, research on infants with atopic dermatitis has shown that topical sunflower oil is a viable ingredient to alternate with topical steroids normally prescribed to control symptoms of this skin disorder.

Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil is a non-fragrant emollient extracted from the seeds of a perennial shrub. It has been shown to enhance
skin’s restorative properties and can also provide topical skin-soothing benefits. Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil is a rich source of numerous fatty acids and antioxidants.

 

The texture of Simmondsia
chinensis
 (jojoba) seed oil is similar to the sebum (oil) human skin produces, which makes it a brilliant ingredient for dry skin but potentially problematic for those with oily skin prone to clogged pores and breakouts.
(Note: jojoba wax is considered more of an issue for breakout-prone skin than
jojoba oil.)

 

Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil has the distinction of
feeling lighter and less greasy than many other oils, particularly highly saturated oils such as coconut. It is one of the more stable plant oils in use
today.

Stearic acid is a fatty
acid naturally found in plants. It is an emollient and an important component of the skin barrier and supplementing the skin with the fatty acid helps to strengthen the skin by conditioning the barrier and preventing water loss.

HOW IT'S SOURCED - Stearic
acid is derived from plant fats and is a major component of shea and cocoa butter. The fat is distilled and filtered three times to ensure the purity of the ingredient.

RSPO (Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil) certified, meaning they have been audited and proven that all palm-based raw materials are sourced from
sustainable palm oil production. Sustainable palm oil is critical for
protecting the environment and wildlife, reducing poverty, supporting affordable food prices, and protecting the interests of communities and workers in the palm industry.

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is an amino acid used in cosmetics and personal care products because of its ability to promote growth though protein balance maintenance.

Used as a water-softening and chelating agent (a compound that binds and separates metals, keeping them from bonding to other ingredients).

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Glycerin is a natural component of healthy skin. It’s also known as glycerine and glycerol, the latter being the term most often seen in studies about this hardworking ingredient. As a skin care ingredient, glycerin can be derived from vegetable and animal sources or made synthetically. In any of these forms, glycerin is hygroscopic, meaning that glycerin can draw moisture from the air around us and help keep that moisture in skin. Another word for hygroscopic is humectant. Other well-known humectants include hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate.

 

Glycerin is good for all
skin types because research shows it mimics what’s known as skin’s natural moisturizing factor (NMF). As we age and are subjected to environmental stressors, skin’s NMF becomes depleted. Whether you have dry, oily, or even breakout-prone skin, replenishing it with glycerin makes skin’s moisture barrier more resilient.

 

In cosmetics and personal care products, the amino acids function primarily as hair conditioning agents and skin conditioning agents - miscellaneous.

is an antioxidant that can help protect skin from free radicals and from adverse effects of the sun, such as premature aging and wrinkles.

itis vinifera (grape) seed oil is an emollient, non-fragrant plant oil derived from the seeds of grapes. This plant oil has strong antioxidant properties, which gives it the ability to defend skin from
environmental stressors.

 

Vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil’s low saturation gives it a
thinner texture and less greasy feel compared to highly saturated oils such as
coconut.

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Extract that can have potent antioxidant properties. The oil form of geranium can be a mild source of sensitivity.

is reported to have soothing and anti-redness benefits and is often used in after shave lotions for this reason. It is also used in toners, particularly for oily and combination skin types. It is said to tighten the skin and minimize visible pores, while reducing excess oil on the skin's surface. 

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Natural ingredient used as a thickening agent, texture enhancer, and to stabilize emulsions, which is a general term for mixtures of unlike substances such as oil and water

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